The Truth About Barbecue
Last week I wrote on a couple of occasions about the RNC being in my current home of Tampa. This week the DNC is in my long-time home of North Carolina, so I again feel a connection. I never lived in Charlotte; in fact growing up in Greensboro often led to "Charlotte Envy" because they were NC's big city, complete with a theme park!
But it is in my home state. On Tuesday night, The Daily Show introduced viewers to Charlotte in their inimitable way, including pointing out how proud Carolinians are of their barbecue. As they reported this fact, their correspondent said how yummy it was and then held up some ribs for all to see. For me, this was the last straw in a long-simmering mind melt that began in 1994 when I moved to Florida. And it led directly to this rant...
Why would these kind words about NC barbecue and the showing of some ribs make my head explode? It's very simple, and I am going to explain this in a language that people from Texas, Memphis, Kansas City and Burger King can understand. Most of this fine nation (and The Daily Show) is operating under the false understanding that barbecue is a verb. To these confused folks, "barbecuing" is something that can be done to most anything so long as you throw it on a grill. It may or may not involve actual barbecue sauce. It might be hamburger, fish, steak or ribs. As anyone who is a native of NC or has spent significant time there can tell you, this is just wrong. Barbecue is not a verb. The verb for such activity is grilling. Barbecue is a NOUN. It is what many of you call "pulled pork"- a term which makes my skin crawl. I can get pulled pork all over Florida (sorry Sonny's, Jimbo's, Smokey Bones and even Fat Boys in Kissimmee) and trust me, I have tried it all! None of it is close to real barbecue. Barbecue is pork (and nothing else) pulled (never cut) from a pig that has been roasted over an open wood fire for many hours. It is then often chopped into even smaller pieces for consumption. A mustard-based (if it's red, something is terribly wrong!) barbecue sauce is then generally added before it even hits your plate or your sandwich. You can ad more if you like. This is barbecue. Not ribs, not anything else. I hope I am making myself clear.
But that is not all. As you can see in the picture above, there are certain things that MUST be served with real barbecue. There are no exceptions. Whether on a plate or a sandwich, it has to be paired with a vinegar-based slaw peculiar to restaurants in NC & SC. And there must be- I cannot emphasize this enough- there must be hushpuppies. Fried corn meal, for those of you who don't speak southern. All the best barbecue restaurants (like Stamey's in my old stomping grounds of Greensboro, Kepley's in High Point, the famous Lexington Barbecue or any number of other great little independent place all over the state) will serve you a platter just like that. You are welcome to add fries, but it is really not necessary. :) Then you wash it all down with SweetTea (any good southerner knows that is all one word) or a Cheerwine (bottled in Salisbury, NC). Prefer a diet drink? Then what are you doing in a barbecue restaurant?!?!
Many states claim to have the best barbecue. The truth of the matter is very few places actually have barbecue at all. Want to know if your town has real barbecue? Here the litmus test- does any menu in town offer a Barbecue Sandwich? If not, then you don't have the real deal! I offer my hearty congratulations to the rest of you on your expertise in using a grill. It is something to be celebrated. But as you may have noticed, there is no grill used in the preparation of real barbecue. So let's get our language straight. Quit using this noun as a verb. And bow down to the one, the only, the real...NC barbecue. Do you hear me, Jon Stewart? I feel much better now...
Let the debate begin!!!
You have vinegar slaw's with vinegar barbecue, but you have sweet slaw with sweet barbecue. You gotta represent all NC barbecue, the sweet and the vinegar or the East and the West. I love real barbecue!
ReplyDeleteExcellent points, Andrea! I did not want to confuse novices with too many nuances about real barbecue, but all you say is true! Plus, I am just not a big fan of the sweet slaw. But that is just a personal preference!
DeleteI don't like slaw unless it is on a hot dog, a hamburger, or a barbecue sandwich. But that's probably too much North Carolina for some people! :)
ReplyDeleteNot a real hot dog without slaw. But that is a topic for another day! :)
DeleteSo a friend of mine worked at Darden during the era that they purchased, expanded, and then sold Smoky Bones. The challenge? What passes as barbecue in one place is considered an abomination somewhere else.
ReplyDeleteBBQ beef in the southeast is a joke. So much so that I would never consider ordering it at the typical BBQ place. But when in Texas... Literally changed my life.
The challenge, I think, is to order based on the region you are in, find what you like, and avoid the chains. BBQ should be made by people, slowly. Chains are corporations that are focused on quick and cheap. That's no way to approach food, but especially not BBQ.
You confused me a bit by using the oxymoron "Barbecue Beef," but your points are very valid. I know the language is very regional, as is the food. And the small, local restaurants are always the best! Thanks for stopping by!
DeleteAs a Canadian, and someone totally unfamiliar with barbecue as a noun, I appreciated the post.
ReplyDeleteUp here we don't grill, we barbecue. (it's still very much a verb here) Well, some people grill, but when it's done with a propane barbecue, we call it barbecuing. And we barbecue pretty much anything (I barbecued pizza a few weeks ago).
Anyway, I'm now looking for an excuse to come down and check out some real NC barbecue. Then again, my Kansas friends say that NC has nothing on their barbecue. ;)
Since I do not speak Canadian, I cannot argue with the language you guys use in the Great White North, Chris. And your Kansas friends have amazing ribs- but sadly, no actual barbecue! :)
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ReplyDeleteCarl,
ReplyDeleteYou're absolutely right about the misuse of "barbeque" as a verb. People grill all sorts of meats, veggies, fruits and even pizza. I even cook a mean Boston Butt on my grill. With my own seasoning and special sauce (no red stuff), it makes a pretty incredible pulled pork dinner when paired with slaw and sweet potato fries. And yes, slaw is a necessity with barbeque, no matter what type you prefer. When you get back to NC, try to make a stop in Reidsville at Short Sugar's. They have been a fixture in town for years. I do echo your sentiments, no matter which end of the state you travel, you're sure to find good barbeque. Can you tell I am a native Tar Heel?
Yes Larry I can tell you are a Tar Hell through and through! And thanks for the tip on Short Sugar's! I will have to check it out. Great to hear from you my friend!
DeleteCarl, you need a publisher: "NC BBQ for Dummies"
ReplyDelete:-)
Written for dummies by a dummy. I think we can sell that! Thanks, Jamie!
DeleteSince I have been a resident of NC now for over 7 years, I feel very high affection for this post!!! :) I have been to Lexington BBQ and I know Teresa, of course, has been to Stamey's. There are very few things to compare to the great "holy combination" (as we refer to it here): NC BBQ, coleslaw and hushpuppies. And I myself actually eat a bite of BBQ with a bite of the cole slaw.....it is a match made in southern heaven!!! I just hate that I have only learned this 7 years ago! :)
ReplyDeleteGot 5 minutes for a plate of heaven?????
Great word pictures, Cyndi! "Holy Combination" and "Plate of Heaven." I LOVE IT! And as you know, I have 5 minutes for you anytime- just ask!!! :) Barbecue or not...
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